The Second Suit
This started with a client who came in to pick up a suit that we had to remake for him. He fits the bill for Big and Tall. After the first try, our fitting just wasn't quite close enough. We needed to make some adjustments.
After we remade his suit, everything looked great. He was ecstatic. He even asked if he could order another suit, which is always something I'm glad to hear.
His first suit was a dark navy in plaid. When we talked about his next suit, he said he was thinking about a gray, but he wanted some pattern so the suit would stand out.
That's a fine thing to want. There's nothing wrong with that. But it made me think about how a suit can stand out, especially when you're doing something custom-made, even if you don't have a strong pattern.
When you pick a quality fabric, nail the fit, and personalize the details, a solid color suit can still stand out in the best way.
Fabric
The first big way a custom suit stands out is the quality of the fabric.
It's very easy to tell the difference between cheap polyester from department stores and quality fabric used for a one-off suit.
Even lower-end fabrics used in custom suiting like polyester/rayon blends are made to look and feel like wool and often look much nicer than mass-produced wool blend suits. This is because many off the rack brands source cheap wool fabrics that don't look impressive.
Quality fabric is the first way we can make a solid suit stand out and look great.
Fit
The next way a suit stands out is the way it fits.
If you choose a custom or bespoke suit and it fits you like a glove, that speaks louder than any pattern. Fit matters more than anything else. It is the most important part of making a suit look good.
This leads to the most important thought I have about standing out: It's not about whether you stand out. It's about how you stand out. Standing out for the right reason is what matters most.
In menswear, the goal is to make the man look as good as possible. If the fit is wrong, a bold pattern only makes that more obvious. It highlights every problem. But when the fit is right, you can get away with much more.
When things fit well, simple clothing also looks better.
For my personal style, I try to stand out by being understated. I mostly wear solid colors. I want people to notice how my clothes fit, not just the colors or patterns.
Here's something worth thinking about when choosing a suit:
What are you trying to draw attention to? Is it the fabric, fit, how expensive it can look, or the details?
There's no right or wrong answer. But it's something you should think about, especially when you're spending $500 or more on a suit.
Details
The third way a suit can stand out has nothing to do with the fabric. It comes down to the details:
- Things like real horn buttons instead of plastic
- A raised Milanese buttonhole that looks hand-finished
- Construction that feels thoughtful in the shoulders, chest, and lapel instead of mass-produced
- Pick stitching along the lapel
- A ticket pocket
- Kissing or slanted sleeve buttons
- Subtle contrast stitching on buttonholes
These are all small choices, but they make a big difference. They are quiet ways that a suit can stand out without trying too hard.
For me, the attention that comes from these details means more. When someone notices them, it means they were really paying attention. It isn't about loud fabric. It's about craftsmanship.
That said, I don't want a world where everyone only wears solid suits. I have two red suits that I love wearing. Statement pieces are fun, and they have their place.
But when you're thinking about your core wardrobe, your foundational suits, you don't need a flashy pattern to stand out. You can get everything you want from good fit, quality fabric, and strong details if you want.
If you get those things right, you can stand out in the right way.